Search Results for: High Interest Savings

New I-Bond Fixed Rate: 1.0%, Current Return 6.73%

The new fixed rate for I-type Savings Bonds was announced today, and it has decreased from 1.2% to 1.0%, matching the lowest historical fixed rate. This was within my prediction of 1.0 to 1.4%, but one has to wonder if all the mid-October buzz caused them to make the rate lower. Oh well, I bought $5,000 worth in October with the higher fixed rate, so I have until the end of this month to decide whether to buy more. No need to buy now, since they credit you interest for the whole month anways as long as you buy it within November.

If you do buy in November, it will earn 6.73% for 6 months, then 1.0% + a variable rate depending on future inflation adjusted every 6 months. You have to hold at least a year, and you lose the last 3 months interest if you redeem within 5 years.

U.S. Treasury Bills: Possible Worthwhile Investment

I was snooping around the U.S. Treasury website looking up stuff on potentially laddering I-Bonds, when I came across Treasury Bills again. Treasury Bills are short-term investments (from 4-26 weeks usually) that common folk like us can also buy at TreasuryDirect.gov. The minimum investment is $1,000, and you buy them at a discount to their face value. In their example, you might pay $970 for a $1,000 T-Bill. I’ve never really bothered to learn much about them though, since their yields recently have beem much lower than online savings accounts like EmigrantDirect. For example, a recent rate for a 29-day T-Bill is 3.696%.

But, one key thing is that interest earned from T-Bills are exempt from state and local income tax. For example, if you were in the 28% federal tax bracket, and in a 10% marginal state income tax bracket, that’s 3.696% turns into 4.29%!!
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Laddering Bank CD’s: Is It Worth It?

I have most of my cash in a high-yield savings account making 4.12% APY. However, in previous days when the yield curve wasn’t so flat, a technique called laddering along with certificates of deposit (CDs) was pretty popular.

For example, let’s say you had an emergency fund of $5,000. You want to keep that pretty liquid and safe, but you also don’t want it sitting there getting eaten up by inflation. So, you put $1,000 in a savings account, $1000 in a 1-Yr CD, $1000 in a 2-Yr CD, $1,000 in a 3-yr CD, and $1,000 in a 4-Yr CD. You would end up with better overall interest rate, and take an interest hit if you needed to take out more than $1,000 in a year by breaking the older CDs. Now, when the 1-Yr CD matures, you go out and buy another 4-Yr CD, keeping the ‘ladder’ intact (The old 4-Yr CD now has 3 years to go, etc). For a while, the increase in interest by doing this was not worth the loss in liquidity. Let’s check again:

I’ll use INGDirect as an example since they are OK in the interest rate department, and their CDs are very flexible since you can open them with any amount. You could make a small $600 CD ladder with their savings account and 1,2,3,4, and 5 year CD in $100 increments. There are definitely many banks with higher rates out there.

So, if you kept $5,000 in their Orange Savings Account (OSA), you’d currently get 3.40% APY, or $170 in a year.

Let’s look at if you make the following ladder with the current rates:

$1,000 OSA at 3.4% APY
$1,000 1-Yr CD at 4.2%
$1,000 2-Yr CD at 4.5%
$1,000 3-Yr CD at 4.65%
$1,000 4-Yr CD at 4.7%
—————————
$5,000 Ladder earning 4.29% APY

That’s an increase of 0.89% annual interest. Equivalently, you’d get $214.50 in a year, an increase of $44.50 or 26%. Not bad if you do have money at ING.

Remember that you are giving up liquidity by doing this. ING charges a penalty of 6 months interest for breaked a CD with a term longer than 1 year. Be aware that if you break in less than 6 months, you’ll actually be losing money! But, it may be worth it. Now I need to see if I can find a bank with consistently high rates to open a up a ladder with better rates. It would have to be all at one bank, otherwise it’d be a pain to keep track of.

You can do alot of different things with laddering – make the time increments longer, shorter, wider apart, closer apart, and so on. Many people also use this technique with marketable bonds and savings bonds.

Getting Ready to Buy I-Bonds

I’ve been talking a lot about I-Bonds, mostly because, for me, it’s the equivalent of a 14-month Bank CD returning 5.83% APY. You won’t see an interest rate that high anywhere else. I’ll need this money in a year and a half, so a 14-month time frame is perfect. I wouldn’t put my Emergency Savings there, unless you ladder them. For example, I have a $5,000 I-Bond bought in 2003 that I can cash out whenever if needed (but I won’t since it’ll be earning 6.82% starting in December!). Anyhow, I have:

1) Transferred money from Presidential Savings to Checking.
2) Set up my TreasuryDirect.gov Account.
3) Don’t want to cut it too close, so I’m scheduling a buy order for $5,000 in I-Bonds on 10/24, Monday. (Gonna buy more in November.)

I-Bonds: Buying in October vs. November (Part 1)

Well, there goes another Saturday devoted to watching college football. Now back to the issue at hand – Should I buy I-Bonds now or later? I’m definitely buying some, since the higher rate, low risk, and 1-year minimum hold time matches my Mid-Term goal needs very well. As I and others have mentioned, as long as you buy sometime during the month, you get interest for the entire month. So if you buy at the very end of the month (I’ll call this ‘buying late’), you can view it as getting 12 months of interest in only 11 months. So, we should buy either at the end of October or the end of November. There is a difference, so let’s compare:
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Emergency Funds Brainstorming Options

I apologize if my post topics are a week late, I am a bit late processing this stuff. Several bloggers have touched upon this subject, all making good points. In light of current events, you can see how emergency funds are important. What if your ‘really stable’ job turns into rubble? At the same time, your house is underwater, and your car is an aquarium. Your online savings account is going to be a bit hard to access without electricity. Even something in a safety deposit box isn’t so safe. I like to think of emergency funds as Real Life Insurance, protecting your current way of life, not protecting against your death. So I’d like to brainstorm different ways of having some backup money first. In no particular order (more like stream of consciousness):

1. Cash – I usually keep less than $200 of cash in the house, but I’m definitely going to put more in the house. No electricity = No ATMs and No credit card swiping machines.

2. Liquid Savings/Checking Accounts – Of course not all emergencies involve loss of power, and having thousands of dollars in cash under your mattress is not going to earn you any interest. And it’s FDIC/NCUA insured.
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Capital One 360 Mutual Funds Brief Review (Verdict: Not Good)

Did you know that Capital One 360 sells mutual funds? Dubbed the 360 Investment Account, I guess they are trying some cross-selling of their 360 Savings Account. I don’t own any of them, but a visitor asked about them, so I decided to take a look since I was interested myself. Reminder – I’m not a financial professional.

It seems like they run 9 no-load mutual funds, covering some but not all asset classes like Large Cap, Mid Cap, Small Cap, International, and Bonds. You can only buy them from Capital One 360. You can also buy a mix of the funds in 3 basket portfolios – Conservative, Moderate, or Aggressive. You must already have a savings account with them to open an investment account. I found the information from the website pretty sparse, so I delved into the prospectus and also gave them a call at 1-866-BUY-FUND. I was surprised by what I found:
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Quicken’s Dirty Little Secret

Ok, after digging a little bit more about how to manually import my transactions from VirtualBank and Presidential Bank into Quicken 2005, I find out… I can’t. Not only that, the reason is just stupid greed in my opinion. Both Microsoft Money and Quicken 2005 use the OFX format for exchanging financial data, but Money still allows you to import data using the popular .pif format. Quicken? Not only does it not allow you to import data using the .pif at all, it evens cripples your software to not accept OFX files unless your bank pays them.
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Maximizing My Tax… Bill? Underwithholding On Purpose.

unclesam.jpgMost of us pay taxes as part of our paycheck each month, as Uncle Sam mandates it to be. For many people, this means overpaying a little bit each month “just to be safe”, and getting a nice fat tax refund the following year (We ourselves got $1,046 back this year). But, as others have pointed out, this is the equivalent of giving the government a interest-free loan. I don’t know about you, but I’d much rather take an interest-free loan myself. So instead, why not withhold as little as possible, invest the money you would have paid out somewhere earning interest instead, and in April pay back the government what it’s due. (Similar to taking advantage of 0% APR credit card offers.) But how little can you pay?
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“Good” Credit Card Debt – How-To Play the 0% APR Game, Part 2

This post is old, please see my updated guide on
How To Make Money From 0% APR Balance Transfers

(This entry is continued from Part 1.)

3) Getting your money: Some banks such as MBNA, CitiBank, and Chase will allow you to either transfer your balance directly to a checking account or send you a check in the mail. The former is preferred since you’ll be losing potential interest while the check is in the mail and waits to clear.

Update: Citibank cards are by far the easiest to use to turn a balance transfer into cash, because you can request your balance transfer to be sent to you as a check (click for how)!
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